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The whole Nouveau est arrive' thing from France is so wearisome I let it pass for Thanksgiving. Watered down and downright funky -- think Bazooka Bubblegum and electric Kool-Aid with a pinch of Silly Putty -- this red has the shelf life of a sand gnat.

Need proof? What's $11 today is $5 in late January. And then it really goes south for the winter.

But I do love the Gamay grape.

Westbend Vineyards in Lewisville has just released its 2008 Nouveau, complete with a kind of '70s retro label that may (or may not) be spoofing the ubiquitous Georges DuBoeuf flower label.

I wish Westbend had ditched the retro look and the whole "Nouveau" tie-in because this red -- fruity and slightly medium-bodied -- could stand on its own, simply stated as Gamay on the label.

Westbend Vineyards pioneered French varietals in North Carolina -- and one of the earliest vines planted there was Gamay. Few Tarheel wineries have followed suit with this grape.

All of which adds to Westbend's pioneer reputation. Winemaker Mark Terry did a nice job bumping up color and complexity by adding in 15 percent Merlot. Still, even at that blending level, this showcases Gamay in all its glory.

With only 90 cases produced, I'm guessing you'll need visit there to pick this one up. Information: www.westbendvineyards.com

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Now here's a green cause worth considering: Buy a bottle and plant a tree.

Trinity Oaks Vineyards of California pledges to plant a tree for each bottle of its California wine sold. The one-bottle-one-tree campaign began earlier this summer. About 600,000 trees have been planted to date.

"We plan on helping plant well over a million trees in the coming year," said Bob Torres, senior vice president for Trinchero Family Estates. "It's an undertaking that is very important to us as stewards of the land, but also allows our consumers and trade partners to play an active role in achieving a greater environmental good."

The Trinity Oaks brand is part of Trinchero Family Estates, the same company that produces Sutter Home, Trinchero, Montevina, Folie á Deux, Napa Cellars and Ménage a Trois.

The campaign is partnering with Trees for the Future, which helps rural areas across the globe through seed distribution and agro-forestry training. To learn more, visit: www.treesftf.org

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Some not-so-top-of-mind varietals worth considering this holiday season:

Pinot Gris: This white grape produces an elegant wine with just enough plump fruit flavors that it can stand up to the rainbow of flavors, sauces, textures and spices around the Christmas and New Year's table. Most probably know this grape as Pinot Grigio, but Pinot Gris is its real name and in the hands of cooler-climate producers in Oregon, New Zealand, Germany, and the Alsace region of France, it's an attractive alternative to Riesling and Chardonnay.

Prosecco: From the Veneto region of Italy, this sparkler is a nice alternative to higher-priced bubblies from California or France. This crisp white grape can be crafted into something slightly-bubbly or a full-on-crinkle-your-nose rendering. Most U.S. consumers might only know this wine as the pizzazz behind the Bellini cocktail. But all by itself, it's a tasty crowd-pleaser.

Grenache: The most widely-planted red grape on the planet thanks to Spain, Grenache spins out simple, bistro-style wines when it takes center stage. More often, Grenache is a key part of many Rhone-style blends in France. But during the holidays, Grenache from Spain (or Australia) is a nice accompaniment to turkey-beef-ham triumverate.

Cabernet Franc: Lighter-bodied than Cabernet Sauvignon, Cab Franc -- from France, California or the East Coast (North Carolina and Virginia do well with this grape) -- performs equally well at the holiday table. Here's what intrigues me about this grape: Cab Franc mates with Sauvignon Blanc and produces the blockbuster Cabernet Sauvignon varietal. Breeding tells? I think not.

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Some holiday suggestions at various price points:

2007 Vendange Chardonnay ($3.25): Buy this in the 1.5-liter bottle at $6.50 at Target. If you're expecting a crowd, you can't go wrong with this California Chard.

2007 Rosemount Traminer-Riesling ($8): A slightly off-dry, slightly spicy white blend from Australia.

2006 Renwood Viognier ($10): For the price, a spicy, crisp alternative to Chardonnay.

2005 Big House The Prodigal Son ($10): This is the Petite Sirah grape from Paso Robles, a little on the chewier side so partner it with beef or any dish with some gutsy texture and flavor.

2007 Casillero del Diablo Carmenere ($10): The Carmenere grape was, a long time ago, part of the famous French Bordeaux blend formula, but the Phyloxera root louse all but wiped it out in France during the 1860s. It migrated to Chile, found a good home and everybody thought it was Merlot for the longest time. Not so. Carmenere owes its resurrection to Chile. Here it owes what little name recognition it has to Concha y Toro -- Chile's largest exporter to the U.S.

2007 Hob Nob Pinot Noir ($11): Twice I've tried this in restaurants and twice I've been blown away by the polished cherry and dried cranberry fruit. Wine from France's Vin De Pays d' Oc can offer great value -- or a real bust. This one is the real deal, despite the goofy name. A lot of restaurants are pouring this as entry-level Pinot at a fair price.

NV Domaine Chandon Blanc de Noirs ($19): Fairly common to many restaurant lists because it offers best value to consumers in its upper-tier range. A sparkler that shows apple, melon, cherry, toast and toffee.

NV Domaine Ste. Michelle Brut Columbia Valley ($11): This Washington State winery may be the most consistent producer of everyday sparkler in the U.S.

2006 Bonny Doon Vin Gris de Cigare ($14): Playful name for a playful rose, crafted from Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah and Grenache Blanc. This eccentric California winery takes its blush seriously. Nice strawberry and cranapple in a dry style.

2006 The Four Graces Pinot Gris ($16): From the Dundee Hills region of Oregon, here's the more opulent, fleshy style of this white that many know as Pinot Grigio and is actually a mutation of Pinot Noir. If you dig Italian Pinot Grigio, you'll find this has a much fruitier nose and palate.

2004 Rocca delle Macie Chianti Classico Reserva ($23): A Sangiovese-based Italian red that oozes dried cherry, raspberry, pomegranate, vanilla and lively acidity.

2006 Maryhill Vineyard & Winery Gewurztraminer ($18): This Columbia Valley (Washington State) white is Alsatian in style, perfumy, spicy and just a hint off-dry.

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Ed Williams, public information director at Alamance Community College, has written about wine since 1990. This column publishes the first Wednesday each month. If you have news of a wine event, e-mail williamsonwine@gmail.com